Fontainebleau - Rocher Canon / Topo

Salut les Moustachus. Voila j'ai pris mes billets d'avion pour la France (du 10 Juin au 1er Juillet) et donc je pensais que j'irai surement faire un tour a Fontainebleau. J'ai adore Rocher Canon et je trouve ca tellement pratique d'y aller en train, que je plannifie d'y retourner. Je me suis deja fait une liste de problemes a sortir. Et comme j'ai toujours un peu de mal a m'orienter dans la foret parmis ces millions de rochers, j'ai aussi passe du temps a refaire le topo. Voici en-dessous le plan du Rocher Canon avec 6 circuits (parfois incomplets) indiques par la numerotation entouree c'un cerlce noir. Le topo provient originalement du site Grimporama (lien). Les problemes qui sont indiques d'un simple numero en noir sont decrits dans la le topo d'origine.

Fight Bloc 2 à BlocOut

Jeudi 24 février avait lieu le "Fight Bloc 2" à BlockOut. On ne vantera jamais assez la bonne ambiance qui règne dans cette salle.

Les voies avaient un petit goût de "ça flash ou ça casse" et, dès les blanches, ça a cassé. Mais l'assiette gladiateur a rattrapé ce petit défaut même si elle ne nous a clairement pas aidé dans les perfs.

Still climbing - Summer at Sandy Bay

2 weeks after the birth of Mr Evan, I had the opportunity to go back to Sandy Bay for a bouldering session. I have worked out the moves of the classic problem The Sandy Bay Roof (v6 / 7a). This day was pretty warm though, but I managed to send it after 3 tries.

New hard bouldering problems sent

It's been a long time I haven't posted something. Here we are. This post is about the new bouldering problems I've been working on with some mates here in Sydney. Unfortunately the following problems haven't been sent by me.

- Sam sending Silent Bob v10/7c+ (Sissy Crag)



- Ben sending Paul's Roof v9/7c (Queens Park)

Bonnet Bay - Good place for climbing!

First time I've been to this place. There is actually 1 crag for Sport Climbing and 1 for Bouldering.

With Joe and Victor we sent some easy sport climbing routes for warm up, and then worked out the classic Lean Beef - 7a (24). Great moves in a 15m high vertical route (see video). Then I tried a 27 (7c) route, but the moves were too far apart.

After that we went to check out the bouldering crag. It seems that there is a good potential with great problems. We sent the classic K2 - 6c (V5), and then worked on Lucky 7 - 7a+ (V7). Cool moves in a nice orange cave (see video).

Great day at Frontline (2 x V5, 1 x V7, 2 x V8)

What a superb day at Frontline. Funny because it was supposed to be a simple bouldering "day tour" for 2 guys who just arrived in Sydney. Victor and Joe did not expect such a beautiful crag. This day was planned to be pretty hot (around 27 degrees) and we just wanted to play around with the classics problems of Frontline. I warmed up in few V3 (6a) problems, then the classic Pincer Movement V5 (6c) and then jumped on Paratroopin V8 (7b) to use the shade as it started to get hot. The problem starts with a traverse feet off and then mantle using crappy side pull. I was so sighted that I onsighted my first V8. I also sent Pockets Of Resistance V7 (7a+), which starts holding 2 pockets from a roof (see video below). Then we worked on the Sloper-Dan Milosevic problems. I sent the direct problem graded V5 (6c), and after few attempts I sent my second V8 (7b), Boogie Knights.

Getting stronger!

This time again I went to Sissy Crag for a short morning session with my mate Ben. It appeared that the message has been communicated to others. Sam, Phil, Ben (bis), and 3 other guys turned up at the same time. That was an awesome session with great climbing mates. I have also sent few hard problems:
- Our Man In Havana / v7 (7a+)
- Heavens Gate / v7 (7a+)
- I've Got My Tie On / v6 (7a)
- Millie / v6 (7a)

Me sending Mr Smiley / v6 (7a)

Vitamin C - 7a (Sissy classic)

I've already presented few times Sissy Crag as the best bouldering crag in Sydney. There are so many super classic problems. This time I present you Vitamin C - 7a. This is a very cool problem. The direct is call Foam - 6c, and goes straight up. Vitamin C takes the same start and then goes on the right with a nasty pinch you have to match, and before the dyno to a slopy sloper. Used to be pretty hard for me to get the last big move. Since that I figured out that I can bring up my right foot and then the dyno becomes much closer and easier to me.

Full Tilt - 7b+ (26)

With Laurent we've realised that we've always been sending new routes onsight, and never really worked on routes for redpointing. This time we changed the rules. We had a project called Full Tilt and graded 7b+ (26). We've never sent any route harder than 7b (25) and even the ones we sent were not that clean.
After some sessions at the gym (The Ledge), working on staminar and campus board, we decided to come back to the crag with more determination. We warmed up in a the super classic Septic Penguins 6b (20) and then abseiled down Full Tilt to clip all the quick draws.
Then I started to lead the route ... passed the 2 big moves ... and getting close to the last hard move I missed a key hold and I fell off. Laurent tried as well and it seems that the psychology factor had forced him to fall as well. Then we had 20min rest, some food, and we sent this beautiful route cruising on the 3 crux moves with no major issue.

It can be cold in Australia but it doesn't stop us to climb

A couple of weeks ago we went to Centennial Glen (again) with Laurent and sent few hard routes, despite the cold weather.
We warmed up in Acceptably Cosmic (23/7a) - Jumpfest! Cool moves in a 45 degrees short steep wall - and Hairy Horrace (23/7a) - Pretty easy for the grade (it's should be 6c+).
Then we worked out the super classic Paddington 25/7b - Really hard move on a sloppy pocket.
We also spent few hours working on a new project, called Trix Roughly 26/7b+. There are about 20 moves including 3 crux: 1 dyno from a matched crimp + 1 dyno from a pinch and an useless hold + 1 recover from a nice heel hook. We planned to send this problem at the next trip.
At the end of the day we finished by a non easy route called Glad Ingram 24/7a+.