dimanche 25 octobre 2009

Grampians - Australia

With Laurent, Nicolas and Franck, we organised last time a trip to the Grampians in Victoria. Who hasn't heard about this crag before? and what's about Serpentine super classic route on a nice orange wall called Taipan. We caught an early flight on Saturday morning and flew to Melbourne. From there the trip started by car for 4 days full on of sport climbing in this amazing National Park. We've checked out and sent few routes in Amnesty Wall, Cut Lunch, Flying Blind, Taipan Wall, Spurt Wall and Mt Rosea. We had a good time and we've been amazed by the beauty of this place. I made up this film with a compilation of photos and videos:

dimanche 18 octobre 2009

Steep Climbing. That's sport !

For the last months with Laurent we've been to the climbing gym to lead steep routes to be ready for outdoors's sport routes. We started to organise a proper training plan, with specific exercise. We had 2 things in mind :
- Route type : STEEP
- Grade : above 21 (> 6b+)
Then we just had to wait for the good timing to go cranking on the rock.

We planned to go to the Blue Mountains since a couple of weeks, and finally found a week end, when we could spend some time away from Sydney. One of the classic steep crag is called "Centennial Glen". We left Sydney early in the morning with just a t-shirt on. But once we arrived at Blackheath (little town near the crag) we realised that the temperature dropped by 15 degrees. It was only approx. 5 degrees. Because we were so focused, we decided to send at least one route. This one is called Jaws (Position, Position, Position), because some holds are supposed to be very painful. During the ascent it was so cold, that we couldn't feel our fingers. Sick man!

Jaws 15m 21 (6b+) - Centennial Glen (Blue Mountains):

It's only last week end, that we found out a new crag in Sydney, called "Narrabeen Steep", which was supposed to give us 3 stars routes ... steep. This day we sent 7 routes including two 22 (6c+), one 23 (7a) and one 24 (7a+).

Technorabble 15m 22 (6c+) - Narrabeen Steep (Sydney):

vendredi 9 octobre 2009

Climbing on the beach. "How cool is that?"

As you probably know now, I moved to Manly. One day with Laurent, we decided to head off Manly and drive to the North ... to go to Freshwater. We knew there was a potential of bouldering on the beach but we did not expect much. We actually found awesome "Holly Boulders" !!!!

There are approx. 3 distinctive sectors:
  • On the beach: Group of 4 big boulders on the beach with problems graded between V1 - V6
  • Along the footpath: 4 boulders with awesome problems including a very nice V5

  • Near the ocean: infinite problems due to the number of boulders, including few roofs

This is a video of some of the problems we did on this day:

vendredi 2 octobre 2009

Moustachus the Next Generation

Hi All,

It has been a while since I have written, once you see the photos you will understand why.

It is time to introduce !! "Alexander" to both the world of climbing and the world of the Famous Moustachus.Gear checked.

On Rope ! Lets go.