jeudi 28 juin 2007

Glasshouse Mtns Part 2 THE CLIMB

First I have to start by apoligising for taking so long, but here is the long awaited sequel. hope its worth the Wait.
PLEASE NOTE: No Fauna or French were hurt during the making of this adventure, however 1 tree was broken during the fall


The sun has risen and up we get no time to relax and enjoy the morning, we have a mountain to climb.

It was 7:30am time enough to have breakfast and then head to the climb. So here we were heading along the trail we found the day before this time we were much more excited than before, or was it just nervous tension thinking about what we were about to take on, We arrive at the base of the climb, it was a perfect day.

Thinking about it I don’t think it could have been any better.. the temperature was perfect there was just enough wind and the sun was not too hot. So off we went as we planned the day before Jeyoz started out ,pretty easy as we expected and we also finished the pitch a lot quicker this time.

Looking good time to take on pitch 2, so off I went in search of the next bolt, ah that right no bolts on this on trad – hmm so where are the spots to put the pro, well there’s a good hold let see if I can put pro in there, you have got to be kidding me no cracks nothing I’m now about 6-7 meters out and then I spot it, a bolt what there was no mention about that in the topo but hey right no I don’t really care I’m 40 + meters of the ground and 7 meters out from my last pro, Its about now you love the sound a quick draw makes when the gate click shut as you pass the rope through. Ok lets hope there’s more good placement locations over the next 30 meters NOPE more of the same but there were al least 2 bots on the way up. So I reach the belay with a sigh of relief, SAFE I yell.

Time for jeyoz to set off, about 15 min later he arrives, thank goodness for that the belay was a hanging belay and I had had enough of hanging around, thank goodness for a comfortable harness. Now I wish I had the camera when Jey oz had arrive you should have seen his face the first thing he said was something along the lines of where was the pro I only have 2 quick draws.

What was really going through his mind was probably “ these bloody aussies are nuts you just climbed 35 meters with 2 bolts – what am I doing here. Time for the crux at least we knew that there were 11 bolts over 40 meters 1 every 4 meters not too bad.

Time for Jey oz to show the way or maybe not, after the seeing the last pitch and the unreliability of the topo it was time to reassess, were we really prepared to take this on. Fun and the enjoyment of climbing rock is why we are here, but was the crux going to be anything like the last pitch a 8 meter fall hmm.

So we reassessed, Should we continue or head back. I was feeling good the climbing was good and had felt good with the moves well within my ability and even thought at times was run out did not feel uncomfortable, so on we pushed. This climb was ours so off I went over the crux felt pretty easy – what were we complaining about. SAFE then I take the time to enjoy the view, WOW you could see the ocean and all the way up the coast- then I looked down you know that feeling you get when you feel slightly uncomfortable and look around to double check you belay just to make sure your all safe – followed by the buzz of adrenaline.

Back to the job no time to look around Jey oz is on his was up over the crux. All was good thought easy. Jeyoz arrived at the belay and we took the time to discuss how easy we thought it was about a 20 not 21.

The next pitch was pretty easy, but I do have some tips though. When belaying and you need to take your shoes off make sure you have something to attach them too.
Before taking them off dropping a shoe at 100+ meters would make the last half of the climb a lot more uncomfortable than the shoes are on the belay.

Pitch #5 Jeyoz was right bush climbing, somewhere there was a path through the scrub, it would have been easier to climb the rock.

Jeyoz keep a look out for a bolt it should be around here somewhere, cant be too far away I’m running out of scrub and thats the edge of the cliff.

Here it is found it ! Time to have a read of the topo - Unlikely start moving left along v shape edge, look up at the climb above the bolt – there’s the v shaped edge so where is the start Hmm yep that and unlikely start, so off I go – ok I’m up here now where too next I can only go right now but that’s a really good hold I’m about 3 meters off the ground about now and that hold would put me 4- not feeling confident, so I down climb and have another look.

Yep that’s it left jug right pocket edge on that lip with the right foot and reach for the crack to finish, cool lets go. Jug pocket edge crack FUCK where to now, ok time for gear no bolt in sight, #3 cam should go in this crack, it’s a bit offset but I need to get something in right now, yep that’s the one time to test 2 good tugs and a third for good luck POP out it comes SHIT ! ok lets go for the big one and put it in the crack around the corner. As I pick it up I notice that one of the wires that actuates the cam has come undone and only 1 cam would pull back ^^%^&^*&(^%!@$@ too pumped to down climb now need to put something in.

Its amazing what you can do with one hand when you need to – but there was no way the cam was going to fit and hold, It was about now that a fall was evident and time to mentally get prepared while still trying to place the pro any way possible, the holds I have were good but I was not in a position to rest I was changing hands from crimp to jam to (*&(*%%$$% off I come - body just said too tired can hold on anymore next thing I know I’m upside down in the bush and jeyoz is looking down asking if I’m ok.

After a very deep breath I give him the thumbs up. at this stage could not talk was filled with all the feelings you could thinks of after taking a 4 meter fall about 200 meters up, luckily i took out a tree on the way down this broke some of the fall. I was exhausted I felt as though I had no energy to continue the climb.

Then I looked at the wall. And there it was the start of the climb it was so obvious I could have kicked my self, a further 2 meters down no wonder they said unlikely start you cant see it when you clip you need to go further down before you go up. Well I was in no state to start again and was hoping that I would get the energy back by the time jeyoz had finished the climb, that is if he was not unnerved from seeing me drop off.

Time for jeyoz to call on all his skills and some new ones, Off he went it looked much easier that what I had tried the first time - but just to be on the cautious side pro was placed and where it would fit ,half meter by half meter.

Now what we have not mentioned yet is that we brought a second rope just in case we needed to rap off, most of the time the second was carrying this up but this time there was no way I had the strength left, so jey oz went up to the first bolt he could find then we lowered back to collect he rope.
Then up he went to top out, It was my turn now the last pitch some of my strength had come back by now so off I went felt like a 21 after what I had just put myself through, not long and I was at the top with Jeyoz.

We had don’t it, what a saga praise all round with sighs of relief. But it was not over yet now we had to find out was to the summit through the bush, there was a faint track kind of but finally as we keep going it turned into a well worn path and as we ducked under more shrubs there it was the summit a well worn are a about 5 meters round.

We were glad to arrive time to have some food and water and rest before setting of back down the mountain. It was 2:15 pm 6 hours after we started – wow we did better that we thought but we still had to get down, there were a couple of options rap off another climb or take the trekkers path back down. At this stage we chose the trekkers path, we were tired. About 1.5 hours later we arrived at the 4WD, the trek down was pretty difficult no to mention busy with walkers that thought the would give the mountain a go.

At stage we were actually down climbing what I would class as grade 3-4 not bad for the average jo who had done no climbing before.

After this we headed back to camp and had well deserved beer or 2 maybe even 3, during the trip back we made the decision to head back to Brisbane and get comfortable nights sleep. Also so we could go bouldering at kangaroo point the next day fresh and fit, slight sore maybe.

Lopburi ... the coolest place to climb in Thailand !

Lopburi ... The coolest place to climb in Thailand !

Yes ! Far from the touristic itineraries, Lopburi is a very old, calm and peaceful little town, 155 km far from Bangkok in the north (train tickets at 28 baths). Monkeys are living there in freedom and people are so much kind and accomodating !

Noom Guest House is the coolest place in town. 3 brothers & and their sister have offered us good moments eating & having a drink both the friendly locals and passing travellers with music on this so cosy street pavement. We rent motocycles for only 150 baths a day. Climbing shoes and harness were also available to invit our new trip' friends. For those who wish to climb with guide, it is possible to use the services of "Nature Adventure" at Noom Guesthouse … but not for the moustachus anyway !!

Located at only 20 km from the center of Lopburi, rises the magical moutain Khao Chin Lae with over 50 climbing routes spanning all difficulty levels. But watch out ! The road to get there is quit hard to find as long as the way to find the magic climbing area … "Secret Garden" !!! 4 hours to find the cliff the first day, 30mn by motocycle the next days …

At the base of Khao Chin Lae is a Buddhhist Temple (Wat PA Suwannahong) which controls and maintains the climbing area. There is no fee required to climb but donations to the temple are more than welcome. Climbers are required to register their climb in the climber' log before and after their session. We saw the chief monk and spent all the day with nice dogs following us anywhere and sleeping down the cliff while belaying !

The Cliff is about 180m high with muti pitches routes. The rock is very good and the crag is in the shade all the day !!

We finished the day with a nice swim in the near lakes, having a beer and looking for the sunset on Khao Chin Lae …

Here are the information to get there !!!!

vendredi 22 juin 2007

Glasshouse mountains, Mount Tibrogargan

The Adventure begins.
Last time Jeyoz and I got together for a climb it was in the blue mtn NSW for a climb called Wild in the Wind, 70 meters 16. After that we thought we could take on anything.
So the planning begins, time to look for a new project. I now live in Brisbane so the only mountains around here are pretty small and not much to choose from, but full of climbs.
So I jump on the web and search for the topos and find the glasshouse mountains, these mtns are made of ryolite and protrude from the ground quite spectacularly as the most prominent features in a flat area.

Time to pick the climb.
So why not double the height and then add some, hey and why not up the grade just for fun to say 21 from last time.

So I email jey oz,

“damage” hey jeyoz found these mtns up here, renound climbing spot but mostly TRAD. Have picked a climb called airtime over pumicestone its 245m graded 21, have a look see what you think.

“Jeyoz” Looks good how much trad.

“damage” Hmm not much, come on we can do it.

So we book the flight and accom, now as for the accommodation, found this great spot only 3 kilometres from the climb, what I failed to pass on to jeyoz was that I planned to use my 4wd camper trailer, not sure what he thought we he turned up, I’m going to sleep where.
But it did only cost us $28 a night for the 2 of us, more money for beer.

We arrive at the camp site and set up, then head to town to get our food for the next couple of days.

After this it was time to go and see what we had set for ourselves, off we go heading to the location. It was amazing the rock just sits up out of the ground, waiting to be climbed now all we needed to do was find the climb, as Jeyoz will tell you the topos over here are very vague at the best of times.

Climb starts left of big tree between G and D. Hmmmm eventually we found what we thought was probable the climb and off we went, pitch #1 up we went, by the time we got back to ground we realised the it took 40 min just to the first pitch, it was going to be a busy day tomorrow.
So we packed up and headed to the nearest pub for a beer or 2 and discuss how was going to climb which pitch.

At the pub we decided that jey oz would start out and I would take on the 2nd pitch as it was mostly TRAD leaving jey oz to take on the crux which had at least 11 bolts over the 40meter pitch.

Stay Tuned for Part 2 the climb.

Airtime over Pumicestone 245m 21 (6b+/6c)

They say a picture say a thousand words, and as I lost the first 200 I thought that what better way than express in video. Jeyoz has put together this compilation from our adventure.

Enjoy, more to come.

mercredi 20 juin 2007

Thank You Men with Moustachus

I would like to thank the men with moustache, for allowing me to share with them my adventures. and be part of the men with moustache.

Soon I will post my latest adventure with jeyoz, where we ventured to the Glasshouse Mountains and took on a climb called Airtime over Pumincstone 245m 21 6 pitches.

If needed.

jeudi 14 juin 2007

Test chausson : les "Ninja" de Boréal

Le numéro de Grimper spécial consumériste est sorti et, comme de bien entendu, nous nous sommes jetés dessus. Une quantité incroyable de chaussons y sont présentés (mais cependant pas toutes les marques ?!) et les opinions exprimées y sont assez succinctes. Loin de moi l'idée de remettre en cause l'intégrité et la validité des notes données dans ce dossier. Non, non, ce que je vous propose, c'est juste d'apporter une touche de vécu à ce comparatif en donnant votre avis sur vos chaussons portés depuis de longs mois.

Nous allons donc commencer avec une ballerine qui a été au centre de l'actualité des Moustachus voilà un an (au moment de son restylage): les "Ninja" de Boréal.
Et ce que l'on peut dire, c'est qu'ils portent bien leur nom, les Ninjas. On imagine très bien, c'est tueurs de l'ombre déambuler avec souplesse et dextérité dans le Japon médiéval. Car oui, cette ballerine est souple (c'est un euphémisme) et se destine donc naturellement au bloc (au moins que l'on ait des orteils en acier pouvant supporter un effort prolongé sur une voix en plusieurs longueurs).
Ce sont des gants (... pour pieds) et avec, vous allez sentir chaque aspérité du rocher. L'inconvénient (de l'avantage) est que, du fait de la semelle très fine, vous passerez plus fréquemment par l'étape ressemelage.
Comme le fait remarquer l'article de Grimper, ce n'est pas le modèle le plus asymétrique du marché, loin de là. Et la pointe un peu ronde n'est pas d'une précision extrême.
L'esthétique est sobre (pour des chaussons, rien à voir avec les "Solution" et autres "Mugen") et plaisante. Elle se détendent bien, aussi, prenez plutôt une petite pointure. Vous passerez 1/4 d'heure à les mettre au début mais sur le long
terme, vous ne le regretterez pas.
Enfin, Fredstache, qui nous les a testé dans des conditions extrêmes a relevé 3 critères auxquels je n'aurais pas pensés:
- très bonne adhérence sur caillou mouillé et fond marins (coquilles de
moules, corail, pierre alguées, etc),
- chausson idéal pour du deep water soloing car la chaussette épouse
parfaitement le pied comme une chaussette combi de plongée,
- confort parfait pour randonnée en lagon et récifs de bords de mer,
- sur caillou sec, très bonne adhérence en aplat sur dalle calcaire lisse (type Verdon ou haute Savoie),
- la ballerine c'est pas pratique pour marcher en style "pantoufle". Préférez le scratch qui s'ouvre mieux.

Pour finir, un chausson qui peut plaire au plus grand nombre à condition de ne pas être trop lourd si vous ne voulez pas que vos pieds déposent les armes après seulement 5 min de bloc.

lundi 11 juin 2007

L'art de la varappe #1

Le blog des Moustachus, toujours dans une optique didactique, vous présente quelques préhensions de mains appliquées au comptoir. Les superbes mannequins sont Matoldshoes ((c) Vintage by Queshua) et Rickou ("el café, es Rickou").

Un superbe arqué sur une minuscule réglette. Notez le regard déjà tourné vers le prochain objectif... une bière.

Ben, des fois, on a beau chercher.... y'a rien !

L'inversée est une prise que le grimpeur prend le poignet tourné vers le haut. On ne le voit pas sur la photo mais Rickou est très facile.

Le "bi-doigts pour la déconne" (nm cf. Petit Robert) Action de n'utiliser que 2 doigts sur un bac alors que l'on pourrait facilement y mettre la main complète si ce n'est les deux.

Merci les Moustachus !!

jeudi 7 juin 2007

Spéciale dédicace pour Joséphine

Pour mon premier post dans le fameux blog des moustachus j'ai choisi de vous parler des we sportifs qui se profilent pour cet été.

Le premier we est prévu le 21 juillet dans le pays Bretons, l'idée c'est de partir 3 jours pour faire la teuf et de l'escalade, euh pardon de L'ESCALADE et un peu la teuf .Tous les ingrédients seront réunis pour que le moustachus passe un bon séjour : Les premiers inscrits pourront loger chez Anne une amie d' AmandeAbloc.

Une énorme soirée est prévue pour fêter les 30 ans de 3 copains d' AmandeAbloc, et bien entendu on pourra grimper à la pointe de Pen Hir et aussi dans pleins d'autres sites.,escalade,finistere,849.html

Le Deuxième we qui me tient à coeur est prévu le 15 août à Annecy. AmandeAbloc

par la natation(et d'escalade bien sur !) c'est inscrite à la grande traversée du lac d'Annecy (2400 m) compte sur les moustachus pour venir l'encourager.

Le moustachus- grimpeur qui n'a pas peur de se mouiller peut s'inscrire à la course sur ce site: , pour les autres il est toujours possible d'escalader dans la région.

Bon été à tous les moustachus !

mercredi 6 juin 2007

A Smile And Above The Moustache

Mais que pouvait donc bien faire MatOldShoes depuis la sortie des fameuses Queshua Vintage?

Le célèbre inventeur des chaussures d'escalade les plus glamours de la planète sort cette semaine un premier single poilu qui risque de jeter un bloc dans la marre de l'histoire de la Pop à Moustache.

En Mars 2002, MatOldShoes, alors simple réparateur de moteur graphique dans une PME de la région Cergysoise, découvre dans un Decathlon du coin une paire de chaussons "Queshua Toucon" que même Jean-Pierre Décathlon savait pas qu'est-ce qu'elle allait devenir.

En seulement quelques mois, sous l'impulsion de deux stars de la moustache, Fredstache et JeyOz, il révolutionne à la sueur de ses pieds le tissus, taillade les lacets et rouille un à un les oeuillets jusqu'à obtenir cette esthétique parfaite qui fera des Queshua Vintage, les "Most Fabulous Climbing Shoes Of The Century".
Le succès est grandiose, MatOldShoes est adulé, et le faste et les grandes soirées se succèdent, de chez Gladine à chez Mamane, fréquentées par les plus grands Moustachus, remplies de célèbres acheteuses et dresseurs de chats.

Mais en Janvier 2007, en plein milieu d'une verte, sans explication, le héro du chausson décide de tout laisser tomber, et se casse la gueule sur le tapis. Depuis, plus de nouvelles.

Jusqu'à ce matin, où dans un communiqué de blog, MatOldShoes annonce la sortie de son single "A Smile And Above The Moustache". "Ca envoit du gros!" titre les Moustachuptibles, "A mi-chemin entre Franck Zappa et Francis Cabrel" signe Rock&Rocks. Appuyés par une guitare entêtante, un rythme euphorique, et un clavier psychédélique, le texte et la voix insufflent un vent qui fait frissonner la moustache et les poils du torse, suspendu au dessus de l'abime tiède des précipices Pacifiques. On l'écoute et on recommence, on l'emmène sur les voies, on oublie les points, et on se surprend au fil des déguènes à retrouver dans cette mélodie et dans ces sons, la couleur et la forme des éternelles et éphémères Queshua Vintage.