jeudi 14 octobre 2010

Bonnet Bay - Good place for climbing!

First time I've been to this place. There is actually 1 crag for Sport Climbing and 1 for Bouldering.

With Joe and Victor we sent some easy sport climbing routes for warm up, and then worked out the classic Lean Beef - 7a (24). Great moves in a 15m high vertical route (see video). Then I tried a 27 (7c) route, but the moves were too far apart.

After that we went to check out the bouldering crag. It seems that there is a good potential with great problems. We sent the classic K2 - 6c (V5), and then worked on Lucky 7 - 7a+ (V7). Cool moves in a nice orange cave (see video).

mardi 5 octobre 2010

Great day at Frontline (2 x V5, 1 x V7, 2 x V8)

What a superb day at Frontline. Funny because it was supposed to be a simple bouldering "day tour" for 2 guys who just arrived in Sydney. Victor and Joe did not expect such a beautiful crag. This day was planned to be pretty hot (around 27 degrees) and we just wanted to play around with the classics problems of Frontline. I warmed up in few V3 (6a) problems, then the classic Pincer Movement V5 (6c) and then jumped on Paratroopin V8 (7b) to use the shade as it started to get hot. The problem starts with a traverse feet off and then mantle using crappy side pull. I was so sighted that I onsighted my first V8. I also sent Pockets Of Resistance V7 (7a+), which starts holding 2 pockets from a roof (see video below). Then we worked on the Sloper-Dan Milosevic problems. I sent the direct problem graded V5 (6c), and after few attempts I sent my second V8 (7b), Boogie Knights.