With Laurent we've realised that we've always been sending new routes onsight, and never really worked on routes for redpointing. This time we changed the rules. We had a project called Full Tilt and graded 7b+ (26). We've never sent any route harder than 7b (25) and even the ones we sent were not that clean.
After some sessions at the gym (The Ledge), working on staminar and campus board, we decided to come back to the crag with more determination. We warmed up in a the super classic Septic Penguins 6b (20) and then abseiled down Full Tilt to clip all the quick draws.
Then I started to lead the route ... passed the 2 big moves ... and getting close to the last hard move I missed a key hold and I fell off. Laurent tried as well and it seems that the psychology factor had forced him to fall as well. Then we had 20min rest, some food, and we sent this beautiful route cruising on the 3 crux moves with no major issue.