dimanche 23 septembre 2007

Le Verdon Rock Climbing Touch

Moustachus Production est heureux de vous présenter le trailer du film présentant la sortie des Moustachus au Verdon.

La version 320*200

samedi 22 septembre 2007

Deep water soloing in Spain



fr : Un pas de bloc glissant en 7b+.

en : A dangerous problem, water is warm, I'm not sure I really want to get out of this natural jacuzi.

mercredi 19 septembre 2007

La moustachie escalade en Corse !













Bastia, Monticello, Lumio, Porto, Ajaccio, Petreto Bicchisano Roccapina, Figari, Porto Vecchio, Bavella.




Ou bien http://picasaweb.google.com/frederic.polly/2A2B

mardi 11 septembre 2007

2 doigts a Queens Park

This time I went with Nicolas and Laurent to Queens Park. We started with all classic problems from V0 (Waverley traverse) to V4. Then we worked on some crimpy problems : with only thin fingertip holds. That was really painful ! That why I said : "2 doigts". I was just saying that in an overhanging mouv, there was just enough space for "2 fingers", and pull on to get to the next one ... no way !

vendredi 7 septembre 2007

Petite note

Le départ pour les gorges du Verdon approche à grands pas. Le topo a été révisé (et le sera à nouveau dans le train). Seule ombre au tableau: le petit Gabriel qui joue avec les nerfs de ses parents. Souhaitons-lui une guérison rapide.
Question grimpe, Rickou a annoncé des perfs: il ne se chauffera que dans du 7a. Il s'agit maintenant de lui trouver un compagnon de cordée. Fred passera sa semaine dans une voie ouverte par Patrick Edlinger et Karine réalisera le grand écart entre mousse au chocolat et grimpeurs locaux tout bronzés. Pour ma part, le retour à la nature sera propice au recueillement et à la recherche de la plénitude.....
non ?! ok, en fait, debout 7h, sur les voies à 8h. Et on ne rentre qu’au couché du soleil ! Rhaaaa, on va tout péter !!!!!!!!

dimanche 26 août 2007

Craig's bucks

This weekend was dedicated to Craig to enjoy the last moment as a single male. So like he said : "As tradition goes its time to get together and erase all those memories with copious amounts of alcohol ..." what we have done ! We stayed at the "HotelABloc", a fabulous place with fantastic bouldering/climbing problems.

Left : hard problem, maybe a V6 (heel hook technique used)

Right : bottle placing (classic problem)

Left : bottle placing using the foot with back side

Right : Touching the roof, with slopey holds (no protection)

Final mouv : get the ass stuck on the corner


That was quite a sporting weekend !

mercredi 22 août 2007

Great Australia Climbing Men with Moustachus


I would like to take the opportunity to introduce Great Australian Climbing Men with Mustachus, one Notable candidate and has been around for many years is Malcom HB Matheson, this Climbing Man has Cranked grade 31 (8b) in 1988 the hardest route by and Australian at the time.

He Recently spoke at a event in the blue mountains below are links to a interview and history.

http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/MMatheson.htm

http://www.climbingfestival.com.au/events_speakers.html

vendredi 3 août 2007

Balkans - The Trenches and The Frontline (Sydney)

The Trenches

To get to the Trenches, find Renown Rd in Baulkham Hills in the street directory. Located on this road is the Baulkham Hills Sports Centre, opposite which is a carpark beside a set of soccer fields. Park here and walk directly away from Renown Rd between the soccer fields, down the bank and along an obvious track. About 50m into the bush the track hits a series of 4m cliffs and boulders that have formed a series of trenches.

Left : Jerome in a hard problem with slopey final holds

Right : Laurent first one to get to the top

The Frontline

To get to the Frontline, find Larra Cr, North Rocks in the street directory. About 50m from its intersection with Mill Dr is a Fire Brigade trailer parked beside a long cement driveway. Park near here and follow the driveway down to its end. Turn left at the bottom then follow the obvious track right into the bush. About 50m down is the start of the crag. Faces west.

Left : Nicolas at the top of a classic V2

Right : Laurent running in a nice but painful V4



Laurent, Nicolas and me spent a beautiful day in this fantastic crag, meeting nice people and sharing with them an unforgettable experience.

Click here to see the access

lundi 23 juillet 2007

Sissy Crag and the Drop Bears (Sydney)

This is the second post about Sissy, and maybe not the last one. This crag is so fantastic ! There is a variety of problems with a range of grades between V1 to V11, and it is purely overhanging. You can imagine all problems you want along 200m. This time I went with Laurent, Duncan and Nicolas (the photographer).

Left: Duncan in a very hard problem V7

Right: Laurent in a stretch and solid move V5

We had a break for the lunch, and had the change to listen to an interesting and terrific story : "Drop Bears in Australia".
Apparently in the bush in Australia, during a walk, you can meet some of them. They use to be very discreet and live at the peak of the trees. They look like koalas, but they are maybe bigger. Usually they wait for a tourist, and then they just drop on you ! Some people say they can be very aggressive and attack your skin with their claw. I don't want to imagine the massacre.

Traverse on ultra slopey slopers with no feet V6




Location: Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. The track doubles back and you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.


Click here to see the access