Crumbly - Black Magic v8 (7b+)

Crumbly - Sushi Train v8 (7b+)

Bouldering in New Zealand - Castlle Hill

Still climbing - Summer at Sandy Bay

2 weeks after the birth of Mr Evan, I had the opportunity to go back to Sandy Bay for a bouldering session. I have worked out the moves of the classic problem The Sandy Bay Roof (v6 / 7a). This day was pretty warm though, but I managed to send it after 3 tries.

Bonnet Bay - Good place for climbing!

First time I've been to this place. There is actually 1 crag for Sport Climbing and 1 for Bouldering.

With Joe and Victor we sent some easy sport climbing routes for warm up, and then worked out the classic Lean Beef - 7a (24). Great moves in a 15m high vertical route (see video). Then I tried a 27 (7c) route, but the moves were too far apart.

After that we went to check out the bouldering crag. It seems that there is a good potential with great problems. We sent the classic K2 - 6c (V5), and then worked on Lucky 7 - 7a+ (V7). Cool moves in a nice orange cave (see video).

Great day at Frontline (2 x V5, 1 x V7, 2 x V8)

What a superb day at Frontline. Funny because it was supposed to be a simple bouldering "day tour" for 2 guys who just arrived in Sydney. Victor and Joe did not expect such a beautiful crag. This day was planned to be pretty hot (around 27 degrees) and we just wanted to play around with the classics problems of Frontline. I warmed up in few V3 (6a) problems, then the classic Pincer Movement V5 (6c) and then jumped on Paratroopin V8 (7b) to use the shade as it started to get hot. The problem starts with a traverse feet off and then mantle using crappy side pull. I was so sighted that I onsighted my first V8. I also sent Pockets Of Resistance V7 (7a+), which starts holding 2 pockets from a roof (see video below). Then we worked on the Sloper-Dan Milosevic problems. I sent the direct problem graded V5 (6c), and after few attempts I sent my second V8 (7b), Boogie Knights.

Vitamin C - 7a (Sissy classic)

I've already presented few times Sissy Crag as the best bouldering crag in Sydney. There are so many super classic problems. This time I present you Vitamin C - 7a. This is a very cool problem. The direct is call Foam - 6c, and goes straight up. Vitamin C takes the same start and then goes on the right with a nasty pinch you have to match, and before the dyno to a slopy sloper. Used to be pretty hard for me to get the last big move. Since that I figured out that I can bring up my right foot and then the dyno becomes much closer and easier to me.

It can be cold in Australia but it doesn't stop us to climb

A couple of weeks ago we went to Centennial Glen (again) with Laurent and sent few hard routes, despite the cold weather.
We warmed up in Acceptably Cosmic (23/7a) - Jumpfest! Cool moves in a 45 degrees short steep wall - and Hairy Horrace (23/7a) - Pretty easy for the grade (it's should be 6c+).
Then we worked out the super classic Paddington 25/7b - Really hard move on a sloppy pocket.
We also spent few hours working on a new project, called Trix Roughly 26/7b+. There are about 20 moves including 3 crux: 1 dyno from a matched crimp + 1 dyno from a pinch and an useless hold + 1 recover from a nice heel hook. We planned to send this problem at the next trip.
At the end of the day we finished by a non easy route called Glad Ingram 24/7a+.

Unnamed v7 (7a+) - A Dream Come True

Tonight I've sent my first v7 (7a+) at Forty Basket Beach (The Black Cave near Manly). I came last week end on my own to work the sequences (see video). Tonight with Laurent we came after work with 3 crash pads, head lamps, gas lamp ... and strong motivation to send this awesome problem. I was so psyched that I sent it during the warm up. Then I repeated the same problem 3 more times. So solid!

L'option n'est pas une solution ...

... pour celui qui a une moustache de champion ! Ca sent bon l'air de Gruissan et l'apéro à l'Anka !!
(bon Jé'Oz, on t'attend de pied ferme avec nos 7b et 7c au compteur)